onward and upward!

Ore-GONE!

team gnargnar!

 Well, Oregon is a wrap! The rest of the Beaver state was incredibly beautiful and surprisingly challenging. As we progressed north, the trail became what I’d always dreamed Oregon to be- lush, green, mossy, and full of rushing streams, clear lakes, and waterfalls. The grade and condition of the trail was definitely easier than much of the PCT, but for some reason it didn’t feel any easier for me. I think that at this point of a thruhike, 2,150 miles and 3.5 months in, the cumulative fatigue is wearing me down both physically and mentally. Hiking can quickly become the daily grind when you’re exhausted and pushing to meet deadlines. Early mornings, late nights, and always more miles to go before we can sleep took a toll on my mind. But, it was all worth it because we made it to Cascade Locks on the 18th, in town for a wonderful and fun vacation in Portland with Mom and Jean! It’s been a much needed break I’d been looking forward to for weeks.
 

  

After Crater Lake, we hiked towards Shelter Cove Resort. This section of the trail was part of the course I ran on Waldo 100k last summer. It was really cool to relive the race hiking with Alpaca, who paced me for the second half, and I could actually appreciate the views this time around! We stayed in a sweet ski hut on Maiden Peak with our German hiking friends Backwise and Sneezl, and Leopard Sauce read love poetry to us. The next days were full of flat walking and endless lakes, some of which I went swimming in. We stopped at Elk Lake Resort for breakfast and got hooked up with free tubes to float around on the lake. It really felt like summer vacation in that moment! Our next town stop was Bend, and we spent a great evening eating delicious food, sampling some of the excellent craft beers, and celebrating our trail friend Mikey’s birthday. 
  

  

 

We had a sweet hitch back from Bend, where our driver Charlie took us to his friend’s farm and let us harvest our own carrots, tomatoes, zucchini and cucumbers! The farmer, James, thruhiked the PCT last year and understood how stoked we were to pack out some fresh veggies. I even had some dehydrated hummus I made on the trail to dip them in, a real treat. The next day and a half was a bit foggy and rainy, and I didn’t even realize what we were walking into until we had hiked past Mt Jefferson. When the clouds lifted and I turned around to look behind me, my jaw dropped. Mount Jefferson park was absolutely stunning.
 

  

mt jefferson wilderness
    
living the ‘murican dream

From there we pushed on to Timberline Lodge, where we had the best breakfast on the trail. It was an all you can eat breakfast buffet for $15. I had four plates- a hot plate (eggs, sausage, potatoes, biscuit and gravy, etc), a Belgian waffle plate (piled high with chocolate chips, fruit and homemade heavy whipped cream), a bowl of homemade yogurt and granola, and then a plate of pastries. This was my best eating effort on the trail yet, I think my Dad would be proud that I actually got my money’s worth! 
   

mt hood’s backside
    

The last 50 miles of Oregon flew by in another day and a half, and it included one of my favorite sections of the whole trail so far- the alternate Eagle Creek Falls route into Cascade Locks. The side trail passed probably 6 or more epic waterfalls, one of which you even got to walk under. It was perfect hiking weather, and the excitement of seeing Mom and Jean trumped all the exhaustion I felt from the last week. I ran down the path into Cascade Locks, feeling like I was finishing an ultramarathon. The last two days have been a lovely break in Portland, filled with good things to eat, drink, and of course great company. 

    

tunnel falls!
  
how fast ive been feeling on the trail lately

Portland is such a fun city, and we’ve been fortunate to experience some  really special rides in unique transportation.  We got a ride in the Oscar Meyer Wienermobile, the RAGE bus, and the Planter’s Peanutmobile. Thanks to the Gleanings Foundation, the team is about to enjoy brunch, our favorite meal!, at the Screen Door in the city. Then, it’s back to the trail into WASHINGTON! Just about 3 weeks left to this wild and life-changing adventure…

mom made it to oregon!!!

my favorite trail angel!

leopard sauce really got inside the hot dog…
   
short shorts are definitely in
 

No place I’d rather be!

Apologies in advance for this really long update!  

snow sliding down san jacinto
 Blogging has been placed on the back burner since the trail has gotten more and more fun since my last post, now over 300 miles ago! Right now we are at mile 518, on day 24 of our adventure. Every day seems to get even better than the previous! It has been harder to write while hiking with this group, because we’re always busy crushing miles or fanagaling free food. Sometimes I feel like we are having too much fun, but I think that means we are doing it right!? Trail magic continues to be out of control on this trail, which always makes everything better. 
mike and john’s mountain retreat
 

sticky pecan rolls and coffee magic
 On Friday leaving Idyllwild, Team GnarGnar ventured out into the snowstorm despite my better judgement after taking a zero day waiting on the storm to pass. Unfortunately, the storm was still raging and we were quickly smited by the power of Mount San Jacinto. After an exhausting 15 mile hike through 2-3 feet of snow drifts and below freezing temps (and still actively snowing at 9,000 feet), we abandoned hopes of continuing that day and came off the cold mountain. This actually turned out to be the best decision we’ve made yet, as we then met the amazing trail angels, Mike and John. These two lovely men took us into their gorgeous mountain home for the night, cooked a delicious homemade dinner, poured bottles of wine by a roaring fire, and let us shower and sleep in real beds. It was the coolest house I’ve ever been in, built on the mountain’s original boulders that even came through the floor. Then, they made us a fabulous breakfast in the morning. Ha, it doesn’t even sound real writing about it! Their generosity was unbelievable and this experience remains one of the best I’ve ever had with trail angels on the trail. Thruhiking has only strengthened my opinion of the goodness of mankind. The world is full of incredible people! Also, Idyllwild is a great little mountain town and I’m happy we were able to hang around and meet so many of its interesting characters. Shoutout to the Town Baker for taking such good care of us there as well, and giving me the most amazing sticky bun of my life thus far.
 
snow problem
  
possum running down the neverending switchbacks off of san jacinto
Saturday, we finally left Idyllwild for good and pulled out a 30 plus mile day to get up and over the mountain. Thankfully the weather was warmer and we slid down the melting snowy mountain back into the sandy desert. This is where our friend Possum joined the hiking crew. Yay, possum! Possum is a true renaissance man- a badass ultrarunner, race director, trail conservationist, environmental engineer, field biologist; then on top of all that, he’s a banjo playing, southern man now living in New Mexico. He’s the friend that the trail angel we met named Wrong Way came out and supported the first hundred miles, giving magic which we benefited from a couple times! Possum has been an awesome addition to our hiking group, now at 5 members. We joke that we have two “factions”- the Ultras (alpaca, possum, and me) and the Hobble Faction (HoHo and Leopard Sauce). The Ultras are known to start running down the mountains as the Hobble Faction slowly disappears in the horizon. However, as the miles go by and everyone gets stronger, the Hobblers have started running more too.
 
awesome possum
  
lunch with a view
That Saturday night we slept at another famous trail angel’s place, Ziggy and the Bear, after a bit of night hiking. Ziggy and the Bear’s backyard is completely covered in carpets and tarps which was lovely to sleep under, sheltering us from the unrelenting wind of the desert. Almost every hiker stops here and receives a number, and I was the 1,252 this season. Crazy amounts of people hiking this year! In the morning there was coffee and juice for us, and we met up with our buddy Middle! We tried to drag Middle down the trail with us, but he was moving slowly due to blisters. I’m happy to report my feet and body have been holding up great. This trail has been much easier on my old bones, which I’m thankful for daily! 
 
big bear lake
  
alpaca trailin along
The highlight of Sunday was hiking to a place called Whitewater Preserve, where we went swimming and played frisbee in the wading pools, a strange but awesome sight in the desert. Leopard Sauce secured us a ton of delicious leftovers from a Korean family barbecue going on there. I am happy to report I haven’t been truly hungry yet with the constant food everywhere, but the hiker hunger continues to grow. It can be frightening to watch us eat, in both the manner and sheer enormity of food consumed. The boys are all losing weight, but not lil Chicory. I think I can credit all the cookies for that (thanks Mom and Jean)!
 
a really great hitch
  
all day, e’ryday
Monday, we made it to Big Bear Lake, another cute mountain town full of great things for thruhikers. We stayed with Papa Smurf and Mountain Momma. These trail angels let us sleep in their living room and shuttled us to the store for resupply. Two other hikers staying there made a delicious pasta dinner, then Papa made his famous breakfast the next morning. Okay, as I write this I see we are actually on the Pacific Crest Eating Trail, not a hiking trail. (!!!) Back to the trail on Tuesday morning, we hiked through some more beautiful terrain above 8,000 feet. This section of the trail is not at all as anyone pictured it- the high desert, cool temps, alpine zones. For some reason I pictured the first 700 miles to be a slog through hot sand, but I’m thankful we’ve had so many gorgeous and diverse landscapes to hike through already. This trail is soooo much more scenic than the AT, and I’ve definitely fallen in love with California. I’m in no hurry to leave!
  
papa smurf!
   

Wednesday we visited the trail famous Deep Creek hot springs, which was exactly as the guidebook described- “ancient naked hippies everywhere.” These were some of the sweetest hot springs I’ve ever been to, complete with a slack line across the cold water pools and a nice sandy beach. We made good use of the frisbee and spent several enjoyable hours there. 

 
calorie coma
 
We made it to the famous McDonalds on the trail at Cahon Pass on Friday. The trail crosses the interstate right next to a rest stop with the Golden Arches, and a forest service trail sign points the way to Mickey D’s which was really funny. Never have I ever looked forward to going to McDonalds so much! Hungry thruhikers descended everywhere devouring cheeseburgers like vultures. We may have scared the “regular” patrons with our powerful odors and appetites. I was amazed how easy it was to replenish calories at McDonalds. Ten dollars of food daily could give you 3,000 calories, which is insane for a normal person! But as thruhikers, we’re very aware of the caloric count in everything, since it can be challenging to make up the deficit from hiking 25 miles every day.
 
mountaintop partaaay
 
Our next stop was Wrightwood on Friday night, and we got to slack pack a 23 mile section of the trail on Saturday. Slackpacking rocks! As we were running this section, feeling as light as a feather with no pack on, we ran into what looked like an aid station. On top of a mountain at 6,000 feet, a hiking group from San Diego had set up a trail magic tent extraordinaire. There were blueberry pancakes, beer, grilled cheese, caprese bagel sandwiches, ice cream, fresh fruit, music and totally rockin people. Their good fuel helped us finish our run strong. I dare say that was the best on-trail magic yet!
 
mount baden powell
 
Sunday, we left Wrightwood and our friend Possum to walk 25ish miles to a crossing of Highway 2. Possum stayed behind to hang out with a friend in town and promised to catch us after our Memorial Day detour. Leopard Sauce arranged a special holiday treat for us, staying with his cousin and family in Altadena. After rough day of getting lost on the trail then walking a mandatory road detour, we made it to Michael and Susan’s house for a home cooked feast. Fresh veggies, salad, pasta, and grilled meats were piled high on the table. Our appetites did not disappoint our hosts, as we polished off most everything. Then there was desert! The next morning, we had another family meal (pancakes and bacon!), then loaded up to play some Ultimate. Michael is an avid ultimate frisbee player, and arranged a quick pick up game at the park. We had a blast sprinting around that field, tossing, jumping, and moving in all the ways that hiking doesn’t allow. HoHo turned out to be an incredible ultimate player, despite the fact he had never played before. As we were throwing to warm up, he was doing his usual hobble jog; then when the game started, he took off running like lightening! I couldn’t even catch him. The dude is powerfully motivated by competition! After the game, we all sat in the grass drinking beers and enjoying the day off from hiking. Michael took us back to the trail and we hiked a few miles to camp at mile 399.
 
michael, susan, molly and natalie rose- leopard sauce’s awesome relations
  

 

memorial day ultimate game
 Tuesday morning, we crossed 400! We made it to the Acton KOA on Wednesday, then to the Anderson’s Casa de Luna on Thursday. Casa de Luna is another trail tradition, where hikers camp in the backyard of the fun loving couple. Mrs. Anderson makes taco salad for dinner and pancakes for breakfast, gives great hugs to everyone, and takes a picture of every hiker that comes through. She moons the hikers as the picture is taken to get some really interesting expressions in the photo. Haha!
  
Now we are past 500 miles in Hikertown in Lancaster CA. The miles are ticking off quickly, as we are only about a week and a few days from Kennedy Meadows! We have some hot, dry walks across the desert coming up, but we are planning to night hike more. To this point, the heat really hasn’t been bad.
So, all is well on the trail! There’s no place I’d rather be! It’s wonderful to spend every day outside in the mountains. And sharing it with these amazing people has been my favorite part so far! 

Coming in hot!

 

start at dawn 5/6/15! thanks dad for the drop off!
  
dont try jumping the fence…
 The PCT has been amazing so far! We started on the 6th from the Mexican border and are currently at mile 101, a few miles from Warner Springs! Steven is now “Alpaca” due to his signature Peruvian alpaca sweater and gloves he constantly wears. The name also fits his hiking style, as he’s been crushing it! Both of our transitions to backpacking life have been 1000 times smoother than my start on the AT in Maine. I know we’ve been really lucky with weather and trail magic, but it’s made the trail almost seem too easy! The grade is so nice and smooth, so it’s easy to walk quickly while taking in the panoramic views in every direction. We even jog sometimes. Our packs are pretty light compared to most of the people we’ve seen out here, and the water situation has been fine so far. The desert is gorgeous, not at all as I pictured it. There are so many beautiful plants and rocks and views to admire.

 
the desert is definitely not ugly!
  
chicory and alpaca!
Our first two days on the trail had cool temps and made for perfect hiking weather. On Wednesday, we hiked 20 miles to Lake Morena by 1pm and treated ourself to a cheeseburger at the store right by the trail. Thursday we got in another 20 by lunch, then stopped at the restaurant in Mt Laguna to relax and get another hot meal. There’s an awesome cafe there called the Pine House Cafe and Tavern, and inside we found about a dozen other hikers. Turns out a major storm was heading into the area, and the cafe owner Nica offered to let us all sleep on the floor that night. We happily accepted! We hung out all afternoon with great people, ate more delicious food, and fell asleep in front of a big warm fire.
 
cheeseburger highs all around
  
like christmas morning! may is cray in the desert
Friday morning, everything was covered in inches of snow. It snowed hard all day with fierce winds, so almost everyone stayed at the cafe and took a zero. It just wasn’t worth getting soaked and possibly hypothermic, plus we had a long exposed ridge walk at elevation above 5,000 feet ahead. Cold, wet hikers trickled in all day, bumping the count up to 45 people! We were even featured on the news. Hikers played games all day, then worked in the kitchen and waited tables that night. A band even came to entertain everyone, and by the end of the night we had a dance party going! Nica and her son Jonathan (the chef at the cafe) were exceedingly gracious and treated us hikers like family; better people are hard to come by.
 
hoho and alpaca on our longest day yet
  
i’m a walkin man
Saturday we were eager to make some miles, so we grabbed our new trail friend HoHo and took off at dawn. We ended up doing 35 miles to  the Julian road crossing, then hitched into town for some pizza. More hot food, I know!!! Another gracious cafe owner, Carmen, offered us sleeping space on the floor in her heated restaurant for the night- to which we said yes, of course! It gets pretty damn cold at night out here, and Carmen even gave us coffee this morning.
   

the mountains we came from
  
the reason we hiked 35 miles….PIE!
 

Today, we did 23 miles, made easier by even more trail magic. We devoured our free hiker pie and coffee at Mom’s Pies in Julian this morning for breakfast, then when we arrived at our campsite tonight a former thruhiker (actually a double triple crowner) gave us cokes, chips and chocolate! Right now we’re cowboy camping with our friends Middle, HoHo and Leopard Sauce, listening to the songs of frogs and gazing up at a sky full of stars. Life is good, and this trail is too much fun!
 
bro and sis domination. all we do is win!
  
mile 100!!! alpaca, middle, and hoho

Nitty gritty

Steven just flew into San Diego and things are getting real!!! We went straight from the airport to one of the many (60+) delicious craft breweries in the area for a celebratory drink and carb loading. I’ve been eating fresh foods, drinking cold liquids, and conditioning my hair as much as possible since these luxuries will soon be the substance of my dreams. Dad and I had an awesome time in San Diego and Southern California the past few days- from exploring this rad city, to visiting my aunt and uncle in LA, to gear drops up the trail, to meeting tons of thruhikers and giving out magic, to a recon mission to the border today. Now that Steven is here, it finally feels like it’s time to hike. It’s been a fun vacation, but now it’s time to start working on the trail!

 

beautiful san diego
  

pct recon mission, complete with snake sighting
 Some of you have requested a detailed list of what goes into a thruhiker’s pack. Here’s the nitty gritty on my gear for the PCT. I didn’t weigh everything, because frankly I don’t want to know how heavy it is! But I have a feeling that with carrying up to 6L of water in the desert, my pack will weigh a solid 30 pounds. Ewww! I had my pack down to about 22lbs by the end of the AT. By no means am I ultralight, but I do believe the lighter the better. Maybe I’ll find some more ways to minimize my weight once I get out there!

The gear we start with in the desert will be tweaked a bit when we get to the beginning of the Sierras- which is Kennedy Meadows at mile 700. That’s where we pick up our bear canister, warmer clothes, full tent, and cooking setup. For the desert, we plan to cowboy camp most nights (carrying the tent rainfly for a makeshift shelter in case of foul weather) and eat cold food. 

 

pack preppin, aww yeaaah
 
why did the tarantula cross the PCT?!
   
PCT Gear List!

Big 4:

  1. Sleeping bag: Nemo Rhapsody 15 degree (2lb, 3oz)
  2. Sleeping pad: Nemo Astro airlite 20R (14oz) at KM, Thermarest zlite (8oz) for desert
  3. Tent: Nemo Dagger 2p UL (3lbs 5oz) [split between us]                -just rainfly for desert
  4. Pack: Osprey Exos 48 (2lbs 6oz)

Total base weight for desert- 5ish lbs

Wearing/on body:
•north face running shorts
•icebreaker tech lite tshirt
•icebreaker sports bra
•darn tough socks
•vasque trail runners
•leki trekking poles
•buff 
•sunglasses
•watch

The REST!
•water filtration:
-sawyer squeeze
-backup: filtration straw
-4 empty smart water bottles and 2L platypus 
•first aid:
-duct tape, chapstick, sunblock, body glide, butt paste, lighter, small knife, ibuprofen, needle/thread, safety pins
•extra clothes:
-spare pair darn tough socks
-patagonia houdini windshirt
-down jacket
-icebreaker merino wool tights
-wind pants
-warm hat
-merino wool gloves
•shelter:
-tyveck for groundsheet
-chrome dome umbrella
-bug headnet
•technology:
-printed Halfmile maps
-iphone (Guthook and Halfmile apps)
-PLB (personal locator beacon)
-charging cords
-headphones
•cooking:
-empty PB jar, spork
-food bag
-windscreen, titanium pot, pocket rocket stove (at KM)
•toiletries:
-tiny toothpaste/brush, tiny dr brommers soap, comb, hand sani
•odds and ends:
-cuben fiber sleeping bag and clothing stuff sacks
-black diamond headlamp, AAA batteries
-wallet- permits, ID, credit card
-pack liner- garbage compacter bag
-gallon ziplock bag (for laundry)
Stuff Steven is carrying:
-suntactics solar panel
-mini speaker (for trail jamz)
Stuff dropped at Kennedy Meadows:
•bear canister- Bear Vault 500
•cooking system 
•tent
•extra warm clothes
•inflatable sleeping pads 
***shoutout of thanks to my amazing sponsors for the top notch gear! Osprey, Nemo Equipment, Vasque, Darn Tough, and Leki- you guys rock. 
 
look what the alpaca drug in…
 
 
hotel floor pack shakedown, ospreys flock together
 
And if you’re really curious, here’s what’s in my food bag for the start of the trail: 
-instant oatmeal, peanut/almond butter, cookie butter (i💙trader joes!), tortillas, fruit/nut/chocolate trail mix, dried fruit (mangos, banana chips, etc), dehydrated veggies (wasabi peas, green beans, etc), Clif/Lara/Kind bars, Nuun electrolyte tabs, dark chocolate covered espresso beans 

If you want to send treats, we would love that! Generally, anything delicious that we can eat right then and don’t have to carry makes a great package. Here’s our rough resupply plan for southern CA. I’m hoping to update the blog weekly with our location and ETA of certain points. Just text me (205.789.1155) to let me know if/where you sent something so we will know to look for it! I’ve found that the USPS 2 day flat rate priority packages are the way to go for the trail; they don’t charge you based on weight, and if we miss a package the PO will forward it down the trail for free. I was able to successfully ship beer to a hiker friend of mine on the CDT using this method, if you want to risk it (hint hint ;).
 
this beer is on fire!!! goodbye cold drinks
 

SoCal Resupply points:
  • 0179 Idyllwild PO
Name, c/o General Delivery, Idyllwild, CA 92549
ETA next thurs/fri (5/14-15ish)
  • 0265 Big Bear Lake PO 
-Name, c/o General Delivery, Big Bear Lake, CA 92315
  • 0364 Wrightwood, CA
USPS address: C/O Mountain Hardware, PO Box 398, Wrightwood, CA 92397 
-UPS: C/O Mountain Hardware, 1390 Highway 2, Wrightwood, CA 92397 
  • 0444 Acton KOA 
-c/o KOA Acton, 7601 Soledad Canyon Road, Acton, CA 9351
  • 0519 Hikertown Hostel 
-Hikertown, 26803 W. Ave. C-15, Lancaster, Ca 93536
  • 0703 Kennedy Meadows 
-Kennedy Meadows General Store, 96440 Beach Meadows Rd, Inyokern, CA 93527

Also, here’s a very rough itinerary formulated from a planning app online- so who knows how accurate it will be! We hit the trail Wednesday morning at sunrise; may the countdown commence!

Road full of promise

Well, it’s time to start the blog up again. Here’s to a new chapter of adventures! I’ve returned to the bum life, a woman without a home once again. I am as free as a junco bird, and it feels so good!

Last week, I quit my job as a nurse in a surgical ICU and moved out of my apartment in Avondale. After a year and a half of the normal working life, it was time for a sabbatical, as well as a change of scenery. Birmingham, you’ve been so good to me. But the mountains have been calling…and it’s time to go. North cackalacky, I’m coming for ya (in a very roundabout way)! 

last supper in avondale with my pro moving crew
 
last day at work with my awesome “nurse mommas!”

  

So before I start a new job and become a responsible adult again, it’s time for some adventure! I’ll be heading out to California in three weeks to thruhike the Pacific Crest trail! One of my best friends, Steven, will be joining this epic journey. On May 6, we will begin a northbound hike from the Mexican border and won’t stop until we reach Canada. 2,680 miles of scorching desert, high mountain passes, crater lakes, river gorges, pristine forests, wild animals and who knows what else. To say that I’m stoked doesn’t even cut it!!! 

Even since finishing the AT, I’ve been dreaming and scheming about how to get back to the trail life. This time around, I knew I wanted to share the experience of thruhiking with a partner. Fortunately, Steven is also a travel nurse, making it easy to take breaks between jobs. I somehow convinced him to come along, as well as buy all the beer!  Steven is a badass ultra and trail runner, so hopefully he can keep up with lil ole Chicory.

my best bro steven!
PCT, here we come!

Over the next three weeks, I’ll be visiting all my favorite people before I head west for the summer. From the swamps of Louisiana to the mountains of Maine and back, my faithful car and I will experience America via highway and byway. I converted Red into an adventure vehicle, outfitted with enough outdoor gear and snacks to equip me for any situation that may arise. Stops on the trip include- 

  • birmingham, AL- friends, duh!
  • asheville, NC- trailcation and visit my mom!
  • providence, RI- visit Steven in his current location!
  • acadia national park- weekend trip with Steven!
  • boston- hang out with friends and watch the boston marathon!
  • atlanta- friends!
  • birmingham- one last hurrah!
  • new orleans- jazz fest, family, flight to San Diego!
my driving buddy yesterday
the Great Eastern Roadtrip, rough route

So, let the good times (and wheels) roll! 

Nothing behind me, everything ahead of me, as is ever so on the road
Jack Kerouac