Midatlantic momentum

  The mid-Atlantic section of the AT, stretching from Pennsylvania to New England, is often one of thruhikers least favorite sections of the Appalachian trail. After leaving Shenandoah National Park in Virginia, the trail doesn’t climb any more big mountains until Mount Greylock in Massachusetts. The weather is usually hot and buggy, the scenic vistas are few, and the road crossings and PUDs (pointless up and downs) are many. You don’t really feel like you’re “out there,” as the roads constantly remind you that civilization and a soda are just a stone’s throw away. Then there’s the Pennsylvania problem. PA is notorious for having a horrendous rock-filled trail that’s impossible for walking. Trail veterans tell tales that the rocks are all sharpened to an upward point and that many hikers quit here. Water is less available than other parts of the trail, and shelters are sometimes 20 to 30 miles apart. I can definitely understand why PA has such a bad reputation. 

 

While PA has its gnarly moments, I think most of the hype is overrated. I’ve enjoyed revisiting the state. The trail is really nice for at least 50% of the time, and the other half ranges from pretty rocky to rock hell. I think the nice half makes up for the rest, so I guess the glass is half full! It’s been interesting rehiking the trail and noticing how my attitude has changed towards sections over the time passed and experiences gained. In the case of PA, the trail is not as bad as I remember. 

 

Hiking through PA again has been inspiring for me because of all the good energy I’ve received from the hiker community- both from making new friends on trail and listening to a hiking podcast.

Community is a huge part of why I love thruhiking. Recently HoHo and I became better acquainted with two hikers named D=RT and BDA (big dumb animal). I mentioned Dirt in my last blog, and BDA is a cool hiker we met in the Shenandoahs. We’ve been hiking around each other the last 200 miles and whenever the group gets together it’s been a blast. It’s nice to have a trail family again! 

  

Also, I’ve recently been listening to a podcast called Sounds of the Trail while hiking. It’s a great podcast that explores every topic on thruhiking you can imagine, and it’s personally  interesting because I know many of the hikers interviewed on the show. It’s incredibly motivational to listen to on trail and I’ve even noticed ways it’s changed my mentality. Mainly it reminds me of my purpose out here and keeps me positive and thankful to be living this dream. Often it’s hard to get an accurate perspective on events currently happening in your life without stepping away and looking back. Listening to people talk about thruhiking has allowed me to gain that insight in the present.

The towns in PA have been good to us as well. At Pine Grove Furnace State Park, HoHo and I both took on the greatest challenge of our lives yet… 

 Home of the official half gallon challenge, Pine Grove Furnace general store is right past the half way point of the trail. They sell large quantities of ice cream to any and all hopefuls attempting the challenge. HoHo and I expected the store to be closed this early in the season, but luck had it that we arrived on the weekend during its limited hours! As soon as we saw the open door, it was on. There were no second thoughts, and we headed straight to the freezer.

We’d discussed the challenge in depth before while hiking, pondering which flavors we thought would be best and what approach might bring about success. I knew my best bet at finishing would be to use speed. I chose the carton of raspberry for my first leg of the race because it looked delicious and simple- not full of nuts, chips, etc. The store doesn’t sell full half gallons, so you had to eat an entire 1.4 quart container and then a 16oz cup of fresh dipped ice cream. We both chose the large container first, and as I held it, I doubted my strength. What made me believe I could eat this much ice cream?! I trusted my hiker hunger and took a seat at the picnic table outside.

About 25 minutes later, I’d polished off the first container with relative ease. [I credit this partially to the new magically spoon Dirt gave me]. I moved quickly inside to get the next portion of ice cream before losing my nerve. I chose mint with fudge chunks for my second round. This was definitely a heavier flavor that the raspberry, but it was one I knew I’d legitimately enjoy. I gobbled it up quickly and completed the challenge in about 35 minutes. As I finished, HoHo went in for his second flavor which he also finished. We entered the circle of champions, and impressed the section hikers nearby who observed this feat. Afterwards, I didn’t even feel sickly full. I got a pretty intense sugar high followed by sleepiness. We hung out for a bit longer then hiked 11 more miles that afternoon. We even made another pit stop at a trail side deli for sandwiches for dinner. Our hunger is no joke! 

 

In Boiling Springs, PA the magic started to pick up. We stumbled into some awesome trail magic in the form of a grand opening of the new outdoor gear store in town. The store was located directly to the left of the trail, and offered free beer and BBQ. The IPA on draft and beef brisket sandwich with blueberry habanero sauce was incredible. We played corn hole, listened to a live bluegrass band, played frisbee, and relaxed in the grass by the river.

We also made a short stop in Duncannon, another small town that the trail walks right through. We fortuitously ran into Trail Angel Mary, who offered us showers in her home. Then we went to The Doyle Hotel, a thruhiker favorite for greasy food and cheap rooms. A group of hikers had gathered there and we enjoyed the company and the cheese fries.  

 

Port Clinton surprised us with some more unexpected trail magic. Our guidebook mentioned the Barber Shop as a point of interest for hikers, saying to stop in for coffee and cookies. We dropped by for a quick cup of coffee and ended up staying for hours chatting with the owner Frank, his customers, and friends. His friend Steve showed up at lunchtime with a big pot of homemade pasta and bread for us. Steve says he loves cooking for the hikers and cooks almost every day that a crowd gathers. We left town later than we expected, but with full bellies and no regrets. 

 

Our PA progress slowed the day after leaving Port Clinton, as HoHo started suffering from some kind of stomach bug. We took a zero day (hiker slang for a “day off”) at a shelter for him to recover. Zeros are usually days where we try to walk as little as possible and eat as much as possible. It often surprises people that on our days off, we are totally okay to lay around indoors on a couch or bed all day. When Mom came to Harpers Ferry two weeks ago to be our trail angel and hang out, we had to teach her how to do a zero. She drew the line after we had both breakfast and lunch in bed, and suggested we leave the hotel room for dinner. Haha! We had a great time with her though. 

 I’ve always wanted to take a backcountry zero on the trail by some beautiful mountain lake and just enjoy being and relaxing in the outdoors. While this wasn’t that kind of day off for HoHo, I actually enjoyed doing relatively nothing for a day. We holed up in the shelter and it rained all afternoon and night. Between napping, snacking, stretching, and writing, my day passed quickly with this beautiful forest scene as a backdrop. 

 

HoHo’s feeling better and we’re moving right along. Now we’re in Delaware water gap, crossing into NJ! We have an aggressive plan for the next two weeks to make it to NH so that we can take a day off with HoHo’s parents. It’s always nice to have something to look forward to down the trail.

Happy hiking! 

 

  

The frequent offenders

…the only people for me are the mad ones, the ones who are mad to live, mad to talk, mad to be saved, desirous of everything at the same time, the ones who never yawn or say a commonplace thing, but burn, burn, burn like fabulous yellow roman candles exploding like spiders across the stars and in the middle you see the blue centerlight pop and everybody goes “Awww!”                               -Jack Kerouac 

Again? Why?!

This question comes up often out here. Many people don’t understand why I’d want to hike such a long distance again, on a trail I’ve already completed; and it’s not even another thruhike, just a very long section. I met a hiker named Razzledazzle the other day who described me as a “LASH”- a long ass section hiker. That was a new one on me! I usually just laugh off any questions regarding my sanity and quickly direct the attention to HoHo.

I’ve hiked into some inspiring hikers since returning to the trail. Some of their names are Fresh Ground, Birdnut, Jabba, and Dirt (D=RT). All four walked this trail before, 3 of them with multiple thruhikes under their belt. They make me feel less crazy. They remind me why I’m out here. They validate my belief that’s it’s good and beneficial to revisit an old path. Though the tread looks familiar, fresh lessons continually unfold. The white blazes may not move, but the trail is a dynamic place. From the weather, season, direction, and especially it’s travelers, it’s constantly changing.

Fresh Ground-

Fresh Ground at the start of his thruhike- i stole this pic from his facebook because i forgot to take one of him! too busy laughing at his stories i guess

Fresh Ground never fails to makes you smile and remind you why you love thruhiking. An electrician, former drug addict, and trail angel now turned thruhiker, he has plenty of wisdom to share. He is one of the most caring, funny, and insightful people I’ve met on the trail. When Fresh Ground talks about thruhiking, he is real and raw and doesn’t spare the unpleasantries; yet somehow all his stories end optimistic. He’s free with advice and funny anecdotes of his trail and life experiences, and his lively conversation could have kept me at the picnic table all night. 

Fresh Ground got his name from his love for fresh ground coffee, and he channels this passion into his intricate technique of brewing coffee on the trail. Every morning at first light, he grinds beans and makes fresh pressed coffee for whoever desires. The night before Easter we camped with him, and on Sunday morning he had hot coffee and a piece of candy ready for everyone at camp. He’s become a walking trail angel.

Fresh Ground was a trail angel for many years before he became a thruhiker, and this shows in his willingness to offer not just coffee, but whatever he can to anyone in need of help. He previously ran a little cafe out of his truck that hikers called “The Leapfrog Cafe,” because he’d jump down the trail for hundreds of miles providing magic all the way. While he has section hiked many miles, Fresh Ground is now attempting his own thruhike. He knows what it takes to complete this kind of journey, and I have no doubt he’ll make it to Maine.

Fresh Ground reminded me- We’re out here to have fun. If you’re not enjoying it, you’re not doing it right. Find the way that works for you and do it! Life is too short to not have fresh ground coffee every morning, if that’s something special to you. Take time to savor the experience, and most of all, laugh.

Birdnut-

good ole birdnut, repping his PCT hat

Birdnut was one of the first friends I made on the AT. At the beginning of my southbound thruhike in 2013, I ran into an old man in the middle of Maine who was kicking my butt at the trail. Not that it’s a competition, but it was clear he knew what was up (and I didn’t). So, I made it my intention to learn from him. Birdnut was the first person I’d ever met who had not only hiked the AT, but also the PCT and CDT, a “triple crowner” as we say in the hiking community, and thus immediately my hero. We hiked around each other for a week and a half, then parted ways at the New Hampshire border. Every year he section hikes a part of trail and Maine was his section that year. I continued on my journey to Georgia, remembering him often. I wrote a blog about him that summer, but never saw or heard from him again.

Flash forward to two weeks ago…As I powered up a climb in southern Virginia, I saw a man hiking ahead of me. I had just turned my music on to help me get up the seemingly never-ending hill, and thought I was starting to see the top. I regretfully turned off my music to say a quick hello as I passed the hiker. After exchanging greetings, I set my focus again and started pushing up the climb again. Softly, I heard the man behind me ask, almost as an afterthought, “What’s your trail name?”

I turn my head and shout back “Chicory!” and as the words leave my mouth, I see the man’s face. “Birdnut!!!” I immediately exclaim, and stop dead in my tracks. We spent the next fifteen minutes catching up on top of that grassy mountain. I told him about hiking the PCT last summer and how he was the first one who planted that seed in my mind. I also informed him that because of the PCT, I’d met HoHo, who brought me back to the AT this spring. Which in turn brought me back to this reunion with Birdnut! The circle in full completion. The trail works in mysterious ways.

birdnut out for his annual section hike

Birdnut reminded me how important the trail is to me, how it becomes a part of you in a way I cant really describe. It gets in your soul and coming back feels like coming home. He also inspires me to keep “plodding along,” as he called it, for as long as I can. I hope I’m still as spry and active when I’m 70.

Jabba-

I met Jabba at Big Bear Lake, approximately mile 260 on the PCT. He walked into Papa Smurf’s, the local trail angel hosting our group for the night. Possum was the first to recognize him by his alter ego, “The Real Hiking Viking!” At the time Jabba was attempting his third thruhike to complete the triple crown. He has a successful blog and social media following, and a few gear sponsors- basically, a hiking celebrity. We chatted with him that night, listening to him talk about his daily mileage with wide eyes. HoHo could barely take his eyes off his tiny shorts and long beard. We convinced him to stay for breakfast and watched in awe as he devoured mountains of food.

the star and striped legs of the viking

I ran into Jabba again on the PCT, further up the trail in Lake Tahoe for the 4th of July. He ended up getting injured and not competing his hike that summer, but that didn’t slow him down for long. He began a southbound winter hike of the AT in December, an incredibly challenging feat. After slowly working his way through the northeastern snowstorms, he was finally walking into spring and cruising south. HoHo and I follow his Instagram, and we knew we should be crossing paths with him soon on the trail.

As we stood at a trail junction into town, debating on which way to get to Pearisburg, we saw a figure moving quickly up the hill towards us. The beard was unmistakable. The Viking! HoHo and I were just talking that morning about the possibility of seeing him that very day, and low and behold! A couple minutes later and we would have missed him. We caught up with him briefly about his adventures and snapped a photo with him, hoping to become Instagram famous.

he slowed down for me to take a pic

As Jabba told us about his plans for the summer, it reminded me how important it is to not set limits on what you think is possible. His ambitious plan of hiking around the calendar year had me dreaming of ways to make thruhiking a lifestyle. He certainly seems to be making it work for him. Creating what you want in life is sometimes as simple as going for something. All the dedication your goal may take doesn’t feel so much like work when you’re following your dreams. Or at least, it’s work you enjoy doing, so there’s no negative connotation.

 

D=RT

D=RT is one of the cooler trail names I’ve heard. (Distance = rate x time) is what thruhiking is all about. He got it from a mathematician he was hiking with who wanted to give someone an equation as a trail name. He pronounces it “Dirt” though, so you’d never know its true meaning.

Dirt’s from Montana and has been hiking ever since he first competed the AT almost 15 years ago. He went on to triple crown, then rehike many sections. He’s out here heading to Maine again. I don’t really know much else about his history because Dirt doesn’t talk much. He doesn’t offer up information unless asked directly. I was able to ask a few pointed questions from 2 context clues I picked up from his appearance- his long beard and his tiny backpack. It was clear he was legit, and we enjoyed his company immensely.

Usually when you meet someone new on trail, you go through a serious of the same questions- “When did you start? Where are you heading? Where are you from? What brought you here?” Many times it feels as if the hikers are sizing each other up based on their hiking speed and resume. It quickly grows tiresome, and often I’d rather not talk at all than answer trivial questions. Dirt didn’t do this. I immediately liked Dirt’s vibes and felt camaraderie with him. Our acceptance of each other was based solely on the fact that we were both out here; we respected that about each other, and that was enough. We didn’t even have to speak to establish this, it was just understood.

When Dirt does talk, his hilarious personality comes through. He cracked a few jokes that were completely unexpected and thus all the more funny. He was a pleasure to hike around for a couple days, and I was sad to leave him. The trail needs more people like Dirt, who really embody the spirit of the trail- understated, accepting, peaceful.

So, back to the original question. Why?

The answer for me is, simply- I love this lifestyle. I love to wake up with the sun and walk until I watch it set over the horizon. I love listening to the sounds of the forest, quieting my mind. I love to push my body to its limits. I love how the climbs make me work for each breath, focusing my awareness to this moment and my body. I am constantly reminded how connected my body and mind are, my attitude with my physical performance, and my spirit’s tie to nature.  I love to end the day with a tangible sense of accomplishment, that I’ve gotten a few steps closer to reaching a goal. I love the simplicity of taking care of just my basic human needs. I love the strong communities that support hikers on and off trail. I love the hiker community and listening to other people’s stories. And of course, I love the amounts of peanut butter I can eat out here and not feel one bit of guilt.

It’s a good life, and I’m trying not to take it for granted.

For more details of my hike over the past 3 weeks, check out HoHo’s blog.

Appalachia bound

 

 After Jeremy left for the AT, I couldn’t wait to get back east. I spent my last two weeks in California working, running, spending time with new friends and Jer’s family, finishing the Parks and Rec series (I blame this addiction on Jer), and making/eating lots of delicious nutbutters. It was hard to distract myself from the feeling that I’d rather be somewhere else…I was enjoying each day but I also had the nagging feeling there was a place I wanted to be more. I realized there was no place I’d rather be than on the Appalachian Trail with Jer. When Jer was originally thinking about hiking the AT this spring, he asked me if I’d like to do it again. I answered with a confident “no!” Been there, done that, got the tattoo. The AT is incredibly special to me because it was the trail that created Chicory and started my passion for backpacking and thruhiking. However, the lessons I learned out there did not come easily. The AT was a very hard trail for me- many times I considered quitting and it took everything I had to “finish dat bitch!” My southbound solo status and the encroaching winter weather took a toll on my emotional and psychological stability towards the end of the hike. Many days were a struggle to complete, tears were shed, and I honestly can’t describe the latter part of the hike as “fun.” It took several months after finishing the trail for me to enjoy trail running again and even consider doing another thruhike. This contrast became even more clear on the PCT- an experience quite the opposite, where I almost felt like I was having too much fun! Don’t get me wrong, the PCT isn’t an easy trail. But hiking with friends was a totally different ballgame. The energy and spirit of Team GnarGnar could quickly lift me out of any low I was experiencing and have me laughing again.

Within a week after Jer left, I asked HoHo if I could join him on his walk to Maine. He happily agreed, most likely because he was so cold and wanted someone to share a tent with 🙂

I’d originally planned to do sections, but 1) I missed him, 2) I wanted to experience the trail with him, and try it in a new season, new direction, with a new group of hikers, and 3) I couldn’t think of any reason why not?! Thruhiking allows you to get into the rhythm of the trip, build fitness and then take advantage of those gains. This is preferable to me over a section hike, where you spend at least 2 weeks getting in shape, and just when you start to feel good, it’s time to go home. I would miss most of the cold weather by the time I joined him, which was appealing as I quickly became soft after living in San Diego (below 50 degrees can feel uncomfortable!). After my winter out west, I actually really missed the southeast and what better way to get reacquainted with my first love, the Appalachian mountains?! I’m convinced there is no place I’d rather be. 

 I planned to jump on the trail as soon as I could, around Damascus, VA. Before that, many things had to take place- a cross country roadtrip, my cousin’s wedding in south LA, visit with family in North LA, coordinating logistics of helping Pops and my Dad hiking a section of trail with HoHo, visit with family in NC, and I hoped to do some trail magic at some point.

I finished up my travel nursing gig in San Diego on March 10, and immediately hit the road for my cross country drive. I had 3 days to make it to Covington, LA for my cousin Laresche’s wedding festivities starting the 13th.  

The first stop on my roadtrip back east was Las Cruces, NM, which is conveniently located on I10, the quickest route back to south Louisiana. I couldn’t wait to get there and drove the 10 hours straight after my last shift at work. The draw of Las Cruces may not be apparent to all, but for me, the attraction was clear- it is the home of the Awesome Possum! Over the next 36 hours, I fell in love with Las Cruces. It could have been that Possum was house-sitting an amazing mansion (which means I got to stay there too!), or that Susan was packing for her bike trip and I heard all about her epic 3 month ride she was about to set off on, or that we hung out with Wrong Way, the most legit trail angel we met on the PCT. I witnessed Possum buying his first house, and lent a hand with the remodel. Possum and I went for a sunrise run on trails that led to the Organ mountains, which were right outside our back door. Also, I participated in a trail work day that Possum hosted for the Southern NM trail society he started.

   

It was all too much fun, and by the time I left, I realized I needed to drive straight to LA if to make it for the bridal shower. I drove a 17 hour haul across Texas, overnight, with a flat tire at one point, to make it just in time for the event. I changed my shirt in the car, put in some earrings, and walked into my aunts house grinning- partly from the joy to be home and not driving across Texas anymore, and partly from delirium setting in from lack of sleep.  

  

The shower was lovely, as well as the wedding on Wednesday. There was extreme flooding in the area earlier that week, with water levels rising so high that people were kayaking through their yards to get into their houses. This included my grandma’s house on the river, where the wedding was to take place. Even with all the chaos of changing venues and last minute preparations, Laresche and Richard remained calm and carefree. Their strong love for each other was exhibited as they handled each crisis and made the best of every situation with laughter and positivity. They promised to love each other through high flood waters, ups and downs, and I believe it. They seem like an unstoppable couple to me ☺️ The whole family was together for the first time in a while, and I appreciated sharing in the celebration and making wonderful memories with everyone.

I then headed north, to see my family in North LA. Monroe was also affected by record rainfall and flooding, and unfortunately my aunt’s house was one of the unlucky ones that was affected. Walking around her street, I felt like I was looking at pictures from serious hurricane damage. Homes were being gutted down to their frames to prevent mold from setting in, and possessions neighbors cherished were strewn about the streets like trash after a parade. Some people came from other areas of town to look through the rejected items that lined the street; church groups brought lunch to workers and volunteers helping clean up. At least some good was surfacing through the destruction- communities were coming together, helping each other and sharing whatever they had to offer.

   

Leaving Monroe, I headed to Roan mountain, TN, to pick up my dad after his 120 mile section hike with HoHo and his Pops. The guys had a great week together, and I was incredibly proud of my dad for toughing it out in some gnarly conditions! Dad earned his trail name, Van Geaux, for keeping a steady pace down the trail without taking many breaks. Dad confided that he enjoyed the hike, but the comforts of the hostels they stopped at along the way were crucial in helping him keep going. The awesome thing about the AT is that you can choose to have a more primitive or comfortable experience on the trail, since there is much more access to services along the way compared to other trails. Whatever experience you choose, good for you! Do what makes you happy and allows you to enjoy the outdoors most. There’s usually very little judgement in the hiker community, as the mantra of thruhiking is “Hike Your Own Hike.” It’s always inspiring to see people pushing their limits and learning more about themselves in the process.

 

 I spent a few days in NC with my mom and Jean, and we all played trail angels at Stecoah gap. We fed 5 hikers a homemade pasta dinner with garlic bread and salad. The crazy strong winds that day unfortunately wouldn’t allow us to do much more than that.

   

Then Alpaca came down from Roanoke to help me set up an epic spread of magic in Shady Valley, TN. We chose this location to see HoHo and Pops, and because HoHo informed me there was a good group around them. On the menu were chocolate chip pancakes, bacon, cheesy eggs, cinnamon rolls, fruit, French press coffee, chocolate milk, juice, soda, beer, cookies and candy. We even had an area set up with tiny games and nail polish, and we taught some more people fricket! It was a blast, and 15 hikers later, every crumb of food was gone.  

Now I’m in Damascus, with HoHo and Pops. Pops is heading back to San Diego tomorrow, and I’m heading north on the trail with HoHo. Damascus has always been one of my favorite trail towns on the AT, for its picturesque setting and friendliness towards hikers. They also host the annual trail celebration/reunion, Trail Days, here. Hanging out with all the hikers in town has been a blast. I’m excited to spend more time with some of this season’s characters up the trail. The hiker community is a huge part of what makes thruhiking so special and fun.

Maine to Georgia, baybaaay!

Georgia, oh GEORGIA!

Learning to love the skies I’m under

I had a great hike through the Smoky Mountains National Park. No ornery rangers to hide from and the weather was cold but still really enjoyable. The park has beautiful trails and so many magnificent views. I didn’t see a bear, but I did hear one trying to get through the tarp across our shelter one night. I was also there over the weekend, so I got some nice snacks and extra food from those crazy section hikers that carry 50lb packs! Really, the amount of stuff people bring into the woods for a weekend is ridiculous. If there’s one thing I’ve learned on this trail, it’s that you don’t need much at all to survive and even be happy. Yet, I must say I was thankful of their overpacking in this situation!

Then, yesterday I made a new adopted mom/grandma Jean. Jean is the jam. She’s part of some really cool group that started a foundation in town and obviously has been successful. She took me to her mansion on a mountain and has treated me like royalty- cooking for me, doing my laundry, feeding me milk and cookies, and she even bought my groceries! We spent a really lovely evening last night at a community dinner with her coworkers and then went hot tubbing under the stars. And man, what a bed I got to sleep in! I’m only 6 days away from springer, and now I feel refreshed and confident I can make it!

I never imagined that I would have these type of experiences along the trail and I feel incredibly lucky to have had them- I always knew the mountains would be beautiful, but I had no idea how much more so the people along the way would be. Everyone has been congratulating me even though I haven’t finished yet, and are legitimately shocked at the distance I’ve covered (over 2,000 miles now!). That seems like an impossible number, and I realize on my own it would have been. I know for a fact I could have never gotten this far by myself. Thankfully, I’ve had some amazing support along the way 🙂

Fairy godfather Phil!

I had a beautiful and unexpected visit in Asheville, NC with my favorite uncle Phil last week. We’d been in contact a few days prior and were going to meet up on the trail, but it didn’t work out. I was totally bummed that I wasn’t going to get to see Phil or visit Asheville, which is one of my favorite towns in the southeast. But alas, the fates had it that Phil and I would meet again! I decided to go to Asheville anyway because I needed some emergency gear (There’s a story there, but I doubt you’d want to hear it). Believe it or not, chafing turned out to be beneficial in this case. When I got to town, I texted Phil on a whim and he had just gotten back in town, so it worked out perfectly!

Phil picked me up, and we spent the afternoon catching up and just chilling. I played with his adorable dog, Tiny, and took an awesome nap. Then we had some killer burritos and local brews for dinner. Obviously, you can’t go to Asheville without stopping at at least one of their countless hip microbreweries. Supposedly, the city has more breweries per square foot than any other place in the country! My kind of town. The next morning Phil took me to breakfast at an incredible little organic cafe, where I had a life-changing omelet and pancakes. This city has their eats and dranks down!

Phil also hooked me up with some awesome new gear from the company he works for, Pearl Izumi. I officially look like a sponsored PI athlete with my new kicks, base layers, jacket, and gloves. Thanks, Phil! I can now donate my hobo jacket that some hiker gave me in PA. The only problem is that now I look too fresh to be a thruhiker!

There aren’t any more big trail towns or cool hostels coming up, so I’ll probably be roughing it for real the next two weeks. And man is it cold! My water bottle had ice cubes in it the other morning after sleeping in a shelter at 5,100ft! Well, here we go, the Smokies aren’t getting any warmer!

Thumbin’ my way to North Carolina

Finally, one of my favorite trail songs that I’ve been singing since Maine is relevant (Wagon Wheel)! I’m finally out of Virginia and have been going back and forth between TN and NC the last few days. I’m getting really close to the Smokies, and GEORGIA! Only 340 miles left!

Virginia had an epic ending with the Grayson highlands, Mount Rogers, and Damascus. Thankfully the weather warmed up a little and melted the snow! However, I’m sad to report that I did not see any of the famous miniature ponies, I guess they were hiding from the cold. I also had a great trail angel experience with another southbound hiker named Gramps. While hitchhiking into town, we got picked up by Cody, a recently retired fireman who offered to put us up for the night in his big beautiful home in the countryside. Gramps and I of course were happy to accept! It’s amazing how much I trust people on the trail these days. I’ll go home with just about anyone and eat ANYTHING someone offers me (or even random things I find lying around, haha). Anyway, Cody turned out to be an extremely great dude. I was a bit worried at first because he gave me a lecture on how to protect myself as a woman in a world full of crazy people, complete with some demonstrations of self defense moves. Turns out he’s just really interested in that topic and has been training for the upcoming zombie apocalypse. Anyway, super nice guy and fabulous cook. He even took us to the local fall festival, which was a really fun way to experience backwoods Virginia culture, haha!

Damascus was a cool little town with a lot of other hikers there, including my buddy Cody Coyote! I saw Junco, possibly for the last time, which makes me sad! He was slowing down to visit home and friends in the area (he’s from NC). However, I’ve noticed I’m much more motivated to put miles in when I’m hiking alone. Also, without anyone to complain to or commiserate with, I find I am less apt to overanalyze situations and thus blow my struggles out of proportion.

Since leaving Damascus I’ve been hostel hoppin. This is my 4th night in a row to stay inside and get a shower! Believe me, this is definitely out of the ordinary, but I’m very appreciative! The hostel prices have gotten much cheaper in the south, so why not? My favorite was the trail-famous Kincora hostel, run by the legendary Bob Peoples. This was the best deal at a hostel yet, as I got a shower, laundry, private room and homemade dinner for $5. Also, I got to hang out with some trail legends, Baltimore Jack and Seiko. They’ve each hiked the trail 9 and 13 (?!) times respectively, which is absolutely insane. How anyone does this trail more than once is beyond my understanding, but I loved listening to their stories. Then the hostel I stayed at last night was called the “Greasy Creek Friendly” because apparently there is an unfriendly neighbor next door who is hostile enough! Haha! The lady who runs it, Connie, is slightly crazy but very sweet. I was the only guest, so I got special attention! We watched a movie last night in her cozy home and she fixed me an awesome banana split.

I’ve been climbing some pretty killer mountains lately. Yesterday I went over the Hump and Roan Mountain (over 6200ft high!) in gorgeous weather. The views were the best I’ve seen since Vermont. Today I climbed Unaka mountain, which reminded me of Maine with a dense spruce forest on its summit. The trails in TN and NC generally seem to be better maintained than much of the north, and besides the climbs, the walking isn’t hard.

Physically, I am ready to finish the trail, but I’m not sure if I’m ready mentally. I’m looking at just about 2 and a half more weeks in the woods, and that already has me reflecting on my time out here and what it has meant to me. I thought I knew myself pretty well before this trip, but I’ve learned more about myself than I could have ever imagined. Also, I’ve been inspired and challenged to take these lessons back to my life at home. I’m not sure how these two worlds (pre-trail and post-trail) will merge… Hopefully I’ll get a better idea over the next couple of weeks. While it’s nothing to worry about, I just want to ensure I take advantage of everything I’ve experienced out here. But as a good friend recently said to me, “why do you think you have to have it all figured out?” Good question. No one has it all figured out, and I shouldn’t feel pressured to. The only way to “figure” life out is through experiential learning, and I hear it takes a lifetime 🙂

I would walk 500 (more) miles

I haven’t blogged in a while for lack of good things to report; from Waynesboro to Pearisburg the trail was pretty hard on me mentally. I came really close to quitting several times. I decided I needed to take a few days off to rest and reevaluate what I’m doing out here. So I did, and now I’m feeling much happier!

First, I stayed at Woods Hole hostel two nights, which was incredible. It’s a self sustainable farm that’s been hosting hikers pretty much since the AT started. It’s right off the trail in the beautiful Virginia countryside, nestled between mountains in their full fall color. The owner of the hostel, Neville, is an awesome host and amazing cook. At night, we would gather around a big table inside the main cabin for family-style dinners that consisted of fresh locally grown vegetables, farm raised meat, and Neville’s famous homemade bread. You seriously can’t get this kind of food anywhere else on the trail, and I don’t even eat this well at home! It was a great place to relax and enjoy being outdoors without hiking.

Then, Kyle came to visit again last weekend, which of course lifted my spirits greatly. We explored some local breweries in the Blacksburg and Roanoke area, as well as ate more delicious food. Also, I went to an outfitter and got a little lightweight stove so I could make hot food and drinks! I’ve been eating cold peanut butter since Maine, and I thought hot food might cheer me up in this cold weather. Kyle also put some music on my phone so I could jam down the trail. And just like that, Chicory 2.0 was born.

After two days back on the trail, I stayed with the coolest trail angel, Trubrit, in Bastian, VA. I really think he may have the best story I’ve heard on the trail. Born into an extremely wealthy family in England, he fled from a life of nobility and became a boy soldier in the British army at the age of 16. After serving for 23 years in the military, his family expected him to come back and take care of their large estate. Instead, he decided to go to America and start a construction company building English cottages. He started his business with two thousand dollars, and in 7 years he was a millionaire by his own hard work. He married a rich British socialite living in the states, and they had several vacation homes, numerous vehicles, and a life of luxury. Then three years ago, Trubrit left it all to go live simply in the woods. He gave his wife everything, and took only a truck and some clothes. Now he lives in a camp that consists of tarp tents and wooden shelters. In his own words he confided in me, “I have nothing, yet I have everything, and I’ve never been happier in my life.” He is a true angel to hikers- he picks you from anywhere in the area, lets you camp and slackpack, and cooks an amazing pancake and bacon breakfast for everyone each morning. I can’t say enough about how generous he is, not to mention how much fun. Every night is a party around the bonfire, with Trubrit playing hilarious songs on his guitar and promoting stimulating debates and conversations. I did not want to leave this wonderful place! But alas, Georgia calls.

Yesterday, a cold front came in and I got caught in a SNOWstorm on top of a mountain at 4,400ft! Snow in October?! I couldn’t believe it. A surge of adrenaline sent me running across the mountain down into the valley to escape. Then, it snowed again on the ridge I was hiking on all afternoon today! Like always, snow is fun at first because its so beautiful and rare (for me anyway). Then you remember snow is just freezing rain, which leaves you cold and wet- a complication on the trail because you can’t run inside your warm house and get dry. But I guess that’s part of the AT experience. However, I have temporarily escaped the cold and am staying in town tonight 🙂

So, I’m back on top and feeling pretty good about this trail. Only (haha!) 530 miles remain, which should take a little less than a month. Maybe even less if it stays cold, because that definitely speeds my pace up! I only have a few days left in Virginia, and there’s some cool things to look forward to- the Grayson Highlands and Mount Rogers. And I’m REALLY looking forward to entering a new state soon, Tennessee! Yippee!

Stop playin’ the blues

When we hiked together, Wolfbird used to whisper in my ear behind me: “You’ll never make it! You’re just a little Chicory!” just to aggravate me. Hearing that always made me want to hike faster and show him who was the real trail boss. But lately, Virginia has been whispering that same thing to me, and it’s having the opposite effect!

There’s something about Virginia that seems to get thruhikers down. The phenomenon has been termed the “Virginia blues” by many. I think part of the reason is because its sooo long- over 500 miles, or almost a quarter of the trail. I really enjoyed the feeling of progress when I was knocking out those little states in the north. Now, I’m in the middle of Virginia and I feel like there’s no end in sight!

Also, these Virginia mountains ain’t no joke. I’m tired. Maybe from the cumulative fatigue after 3 months on the trail now, or possibly the easier midatlantic section made me soft, or most likely I’ve just got a disease of the mind. Still, these long, slow climbs that seem to never end wear on you!

Thankfully, I’ve had ole Junco around to keep my spirits up. He makes me hot chocolate and keeps me laughing with his quirky ways. Also, we made a new friend on the trail- Cody Coyote. Now this dude, he is the real deal (the man! the myth! the legend!). He’s my age and on his 4th thruhike, in a row! Crazy! He’s actually legitimately homeless, and the trail is his home. He doesn’t have any family, and he gets by with less than anyone I’ve ever seen. Yet, he’s such a sweet guy with a great sense of humor that you just love being around. Hanging out with him this past week really helped me gain some perspective on my situation. Sometimes I joke about being homeless out here on the trail, but I always know I have somewhere I can go back to at any time. It’s not a true reality situation. Plus, I’ve chosen my current lifestyle of my own accord. The biggest problems I have right now are low motivation and homesickness, which seem trivial compared to Cody’s. So, I’m actively trying to become more aware of the amazing opportunities I’ve been given and not waste them. Also, I’m trying to find and appreciate the beautiful things about every day- things like Cody’s simple way of life and positive spirit- that inspire me to become a better person.